Tap water problem, nearly a disaster
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marusempai
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I've never timed it, so I don't know, but likely ten minutes is about right... enough time to remove the old water, throw it out, and get my daughter out of the fish food, if that means anything to you. Me doing water changes is more performance art than anything scientific with my little helper around.
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Neonshrimp
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marusempai wrote:I've never timed it, so I don't know, but likely ten minutes is about right... enough time to remove the old water, throw it out, and get my daughter out of the fish food, if that means anything to you. Me doing water changes is more performance art than anything scientific with my little helper around.
It's nice to have a helper, especially if they learn to love the hobby too 
water quality
Just a note too - I'm not on city water but well water. Those on well water should be careful also. I know well water isn't compatible with most of the advanced species.
I had a big blip two weeks ago in my numbers PH up to 8.5 and ammonia at .5 (normally PH is 8.3 and ammonia .15 - after bubbling for 24 hours).
I use a mix of mostly distilled and some bubbled water to bring PH to 7.6.
Karrie
I had a big blip two weeks ago in my numbers PH up to 8.5 and ammonia at .5 (normally PH is 8.3 and ammonia .15 - after bubbling for 24 hours).
I use a mix of mostly distilled and some bubbled water to bring PH to 7.6.
Karrie
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Neonshrimp
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badflash
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If you use a python, fill buckets with it, I know for a fact that with my water if you add the water to the tank & conditioner your inverts end up dead. My water company claims they are only adding chlorine within the EPA limits. I'm still playing phone tag with them to get specifics.wendyjo wrote:What about those using a Python tho - you can't let the water sit for 10 minutes in that case.
If you saw how my crays reacted and died, you'd never ever consider adding unconditioned water to your aquarium. For thise of you who have been getting away with it, just wait until the water company spikes your water.
Water
The person who posted on this probably saved others from near disasters also.
Regarding the well water - I don't have enough experience to know if this is a seasonal blip or if there is a root cause. I've only been keeping tanks since March. PH and ammonia both increased so something is happening in nature that is causing this. My water is put in five gallon jugs and bubbled for a minimum of 24 hours before using.
Someone on our local aquarium society website had recently posted about losing all of their neons b/c of the chloramine most likely but also the PH from the city water was normally 7.2 - when he tested it was 7.8. Probably another seasonal blip.
I know I'll be more careful from now on.
Karrie
Regarding the well water - I don't have enough experience to know if this is a seasonal blip or if there is a root cause. I've only been keeping tanks since March. PH and ammonia both increased so something is happening in nature that is causing this. My water is put in five gallon jugs and bubbled for a minimum of 24 hours before using.
Someone on our local aquarium society website had recently posted about losing all of their neons b/c of the chloramine most likely but also the PH from the city water was normally 7.2 - when he tested it was 7.8. Probably another seasonal blip.
I know I'll be more careful from now on.
Karrie
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badflash
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Still playing phone tag with the water company, but I spoke with the LFS owner who is having a similar problem. As it turns out my area formed a new water district and the water is now being piped in from a town north of us. They changed over the chloramine from chlorine and due to the long runs of pipe they are spiking the concentrations up to, and in some cases, over the EPA limits.
Chloramine takes longer to break down and apears to produce amonia as it does. This means that the water conditioner has to break down the chloramine, then bind the chlorine and the amonia, so the effect takes time. 10 minutes in a well mixed container before adding to the tank is working for me. I am looking into getting a large in-line charcoal filter as that is supposed to remove, not just bind the stuff.
Chloramine takes longer to break down and apears to produce amonia as it does. This means that the water conditioner has to break down the chloramine, then bind the chlorine and the amonia, so the effect takes time. 10 minutes in a well mixed container before adding to the tank is working for me. I am looking into getting a large in-line charcoal filter as that is supposed to remove, not just bind the stuff.
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Neonshrimp
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Thanks for the information, I will look into this too. I am still debating on wether to get a small R/O unit or just keep getting it from the grocery store. The holidays is the time to spendI am looking into getting a large in-line charcoal filter as that is supposed to remove, not just bind the stuff.
ro/di unit is well worth it imo, I do not have a fresh water tank up yet (considering doing an invert/planted tank) but I do have a saltwater reef tank, I use ro/di for top offs and water changes. You will always know your water is clean and no surprises with a good ro/di unit. [commercial link removed by admin] has fantastic customer service and top of the line products, I have the typhoon III unit, highly recommended.
[admin comment: please re-read the rules regarding commercial links]
[admin comment: please re-read the rules regarding commercial links]