Confirming Opae Ula shrimp tank created correctly and also temperature for shipments

[Aran Valente]

Dear members,

Hello, My plan is to create sustainable bio-active ecosystems that require little to no maintenance so I created a few orchid terrariums with tropical millipedes and now I am creating this shrimp tank so that when I get busy after this pandemic is over I will be able to travel for work and not be kept back by high maintenance pets.

I have 2 sets of questions. The first is confirmation of the shrimp tank's correct setup and the second is about the shrimp shipment's temperature.

I want to confirm that I created my Opae Ula Halocardinia Rubra tank the right way: I bought a 2-gallon glass cookie jar and rinsed it with distilled water. I washed off Coraline coral substrate, bought one of those 6-inch lava rocks from Petco, dry coral pieces, and boiled them all in distilled water before placing them in the cookie jar. I boiled Instant Ocean Marine Sea Salt in distilled water and poured that in as well. The Instant Ocean Hydrometer I bought reads 1.010. I put in one of those Beta Fish Heaters but I can take it out after I put in the shrimp as I know Mustafa recommended keep it out in case it overheats so as not to fry the shrimp. I also have a thermometer suction-cupped to the side of the tank that reads that the tank is in the low-sixties for Fahrenheit when the heater is plugged in and in the low-fifties when it is unplugged. I am not sure if it goes below the low fifties in the early morning hours but our house is pretty cold in the winter. My tank was set up by late December, I waited for it to cycle, and I just noticed specks of algae growing on the coral this past week. I decided to increase their growth with my plant grow light so my Opae Ula shrimp will have a feast. I didn't check the ammonia or nitrates because I read that once the algae starts growing that means it is ready for the shrimp but I do have Ph kits and ammonia and nitrate level kits if you think it is necessary. My plan is to purchase 10 Opae Ula Halocaridinia Rubra shrimp from Petshrimp.com because I read that they are captive-bred here. I have attached a couple of pictures of my shrimp tank from the side and from above. I saw some orange spots on the lava rock when I purchased it and I wasn't sure if that was normal or if it was a sign of other minerals that shouldn't be in the tank? So confirmation that I didn't miss anything and the part about the question of minerals is my first question.

My second question has to do with temperature. I live in southern Rhode Island and we are in the middle of winter right now. Sometimes the daytime is 19 degrees farenheit and the nights are even colder. Mustafa said there was a way to keep the shrimp warm in the mail but I didn't mention how cold it is here. I wanted to check if it was a good idea to get my shrimp in February or if I should wait til later in Spring?

Also, have any of you seen the film about "Shrimpcinatti"? If you haven't here is the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tE1-6jig4ZY I think it might be one of the most impassioned odes to opae ula I have seen on the internet. The aqua-bridges are pretty cool. I am planning to name my tank "Shrimpidence" in reference to Rhode Island's capital city, haha.

Thank you all for reading my message and I hope to hear from you soon!

Sincerely,

Aran

[Dch48]

It looks good but I will say one thing. If the lid makes the system airtight and is going to be left on, then 25% of the volume should be air space. This is the advice of those who create sealed ecosystems. You need to allow for sufficient gas exchange between the water and air. If you are going to remove the lid for a period every day, which you should in my opinion, then you should be fine. When you travel, leave the 25% air space.

The temperatures are a bit low so I would leave the heater in. Is it one that has a preset temp and turns on and off?

Personally, I would wait until it warms up some before ordering any shrimp.

[sliphorn]

Dear members,

Hello, My plan is to create sustainable bio-active ecosystems that require little to no maintenance so I created a few orchid terrariums with tropical millipedes and now I am creating this shrimp tank so that when I get busy after this pandemic is over I will be able to travel for work and not be kept back by high maintenance pets.

I have 2 sets of questions. The first is confirmation of the shrimp tank's correct setup and the second is about the shrimp shipment's temperature.

I want to confirm that I created my Opae Ula Halocardinia Rubra tank the right way: I bought a 2-gallon glass cookie jar and rinsed it with distilled water. I washed off Coraline coral substrate, bought one of those 6-inch lava rocks from Petco, dry coral pieces, and boiled them all in distilled water before placing them in the cookie jar. I boiled Instant Ocean Marine Sea Salt in distilled water and poured that in as well. The Instant Ocean Hydrometer I bought reads 1.010. I put in one of those Beta Fish Heaters but I can take it out after I put in the shrimp as I know Mustafa recommended keep it out in case it overheats so as not to fry the shrimp. I also have a thermometer suction-cupped to the side of the tank that reads that the tank is in the low-sixties for Fahrenheit when the heater is plugged in and in the low-fifties when it is unplugged. I am not sure if it goes below the low fifties in the early morning hours but our house is pretty cold in the winter. My tank was set up by late December, I waited for it to cycle, and I just noticed specks of algae growing on the coral this past week. I decided to increase their growth with my plant grow light so my Opae Ula shrimp will have a feast. I didn't check the ammonia or nitrates because I read that once the algae starts growing that means it is ready for the shrimp but I do have Ph kits and ammonia and nitrate level kits if you think it is necessary. My plan is to purchase 10 Opae Ula Halocaridinia Rubra shrimp from Petshrimp.com because I read that they are captive-bred here. I have attached a couple of pictures of my shrimp tank from the side and from above. I saw some orange spots on the lava rock when I purchased it and I wasn't sure if that was normal or if it was a sign of other minerals that shouldn't be in the tank? So confirmation that I didn't miss anything and the part about the question of minerals is my first question.

My second question has to do with temperature. I live in southern Rhode Island and we are in the middle of winter right now. Sometimes the daytime is 19 degrees farenheit and the nights are even colder. Mustafa said there was a way to keep the shrimp warm in the mail but I didn't mention how cold it is here. I wanted to check if it was a good idea to get my shrimp in February or if I should wait til later in Spring?

Also, have any of you seen the film about "Shrimpcinatti"? If you haven't here is the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tE1-6jig4ZY I think it might be one of the most impassioned odes to opae ula I have seen on the internet. The aqua-bridges are pretty cool. I am planning to name my tank "Shrimpidence" in reference to Rhode Island's capital city, haha.

Thank you all for reading my message and I hope to hear from you soon!

Sincerely,

Aran

..
Why did you boil the instant ocean in distilled water? Completely unnecessary and I have no idea if it could cause a problem in the future. I would wait until your temps rise in the spring before ordering shrimp. I lost 15 in a recent shipment from Mustafa because we think the carrier left the package in a cold truck overnight. The lava rock and coraline substrate is fine.

..

[Aran Valente]

Dear members,

Hello, My plan is to create sustainable bio-active ecosystems that require little to no maintenance so I created a few orchid terrariums with tropical millipedes and now I am creating this shrimp tank so that when I get busy after this pandemic is over I will be able to travel for work and not be kept back by high maintenance pets.

I have 2 sets of questions. The first is confirmation of the shrimp tank's correct setup and the second is about the shrimp shipment's temperature.

I want to confirm that I created my Opae Ula Halocardinia Rubra tank the right way: I bought a 2-gallon glass cookie jar and rinsed it with distilled water. I washed off Coraline coral substrate, bought one of those 6-inch lava rocks from Petco, dry coral pieces, and boiled them all in distilled water before placing them in the cookie jar. I boiled Instant Ocean Marine Sea Salt in distilled water and poured that in as well. The Instant Ocean Hydrometer I bought reads 1.010. I put in one of those Beta Fish Heaters but I can take it out after I put in the shrimp as I know Mustafa recommended keep it out in case it overheats so as not to fry the shrimp. I also have a thermometer suction-cupped to the side of the tank that reads that the tank is in the low-sixties for Fahrenheit when the heater is plugged in and in the low-fifties when it is unplugged. I am not sure if it goes below the low fifties in the early morning hours but our house is pretty cold in the winter. My tank was set up by late December, I waited for it to cycle, and I just noticed specks of algae growing on the coral this past week. I decided to increase their growth with my plant grow light so my Opae Ula shrimp will have a feast. I didn't check the ammonia or nitrates because I read that once the algae starts growing that means it is ready for the shrimp but I do have Ph kits and ammonia and nitrate level kits if you think it is necessary. My plan is to purchase 10 Opae Ula Halocaridinia Rubra shrimp from Petshrimp.com because I read that they are captive-bred here. I have attached a couple of pictures of my shrimp tank from the side and from above. I saw some orange spots on the lava rock when I purchased it and I wasn't sure if that was normal or if it was a sign of other minerals that shouldn't be in the tank? So confirmation that I didn't miss anything and the part about the question of minerals is my first question.

My second question has to do with temperature. I live in southern Rhode Island and we are in the middle of winter right now. Sometimes the daytime is 19 degrees farenheit and the nights are even colder. Mustafa said there was a way to keep the shrimp warm in the mail but I didn't mention how cold it is here. I wanted to check if it was a good idea to get my shrimp in February or if I should wait til later in Spring?

Also, have any of you seen the film about "Shrimpcinatti"? If you haven't here is the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tE1-6jig4ZY I think it might be one of the most impassioned odes to opae ula I have seen on the internet. The aqua-bridges are pretty cool. I am planning to name my tank "Shrimpidence" in reference to Rhode Island's capital city, haha.

Thank you all for reading my message and I hope to hear from you soon!

Sincerely,

Aran

Dear members,

Hello, My plan is to create sustainable bio-active ecosystems that require little to no maintenance so I created a few orchid terrariums with tropical millipedes and now I am creating this shrimp tank so that when I get busy after this pandemic is over I will be able to travel for work and not be kept back by high maintenance pets.

I have 2 sets of questions. The first is confirmation of the shrimp tank's correct setup and the second is about the shrimp shipment's temperature.

I want to confirm that I created my Opae Ula Halocardinia Rubra tank the right way: I bought a 2-gallon glass cookie jar and rinsed it with distilled water. I washed off Coraline coral substrate, bought one of those 6-inch lava rocks from Petco, dry coral pieces, and boiled them all in distilled water before placing them in the cookie jar. I boiled Instant Ocean Marine Sea Salt in distilled water and poured that in as well. The Instant Ocean Hydrometer I bought reads 1.010. I put in one of those Beta Fish Heaters but I can take it out after I put in the shrimp as I know Mustafa recommended keep it out in case it overheats so as not to fry the shrimp. I also have a thermometer suction-cupped to the side of the tank that reads that the tank is in the low-sixties for Fahrenheit when the heater is plugged in and in the low-fifties when it is unplugged. I am not sure if it goes below the low fifties in the early morning hours but our house is pretty cold in the winter. My tank was set up by late December, I waited for it to cycle, and I just noticed specks of algae growing on the coral this past week. I decided to increase their growth with my plant grow light so my Opae Ula shrimp will have a feast. I didn't check the ammonia or nitrates because I read that once the algae starts growing that means it is ready for the shrimp but I do have Ph kits and ammonia and nitrate level kits if you think it is necessary. My plan is to purchase 10 Opae Ula Halocaridinia Rubra shrimp from Petshrimp.com because I read that they are captive-bred here. I have attached a couple of pictures of my shrimp tank from the side and from above. I saw some orange spots on the lava rock when I purchased it and I wasn't sure if that was normal or if it was a sign of other minerals that shouldn't be in the tank? So confirmation that I didn't miss anything and the part about the question of minerals is my first question.

My second question has to do with temperature. I live in southern Rhode Island and we are in the middle of winter right now. Sometimes the daytime is 19 degrees farenheit and the nights are even colder. Mustafa said there was a way to keep the shrimp warm in the mail but I didn't mention how cold it is here. I wanted to check if it was a good idea to get my shrimp in February or if I should wait til later in Spring?

Also, have any of you seen the film about "Shrimpcinatti"? If you haven't here is the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tE1-6jig4ZY I think it might be one of the most impassioned odes to opae ula I have seen on the internet. The aqua-bridges are pretty cool. I am planning to name my tank "Shrimpidence" in reference to Rhode Island's capital city, haha.

Thank you all for reading my message and I hope to hear from you soon!

Sincerely,

Aran

..
Why did you boil the instant ocean in distilled water? Completely unnecessary and I have no idea if it could cause a problem in the future. I would wait until your temps rise in the spring before ordering shrimp. I lost 15 in a recent shipment from Mustafa because we think the carrier left the package in a cold truck overnight. The lava rock and coraline substrate is fine.

..

@Sliphorn, thank you for your response! I'd read instant ocean salt mixes better when boiled. I figured if I boiled the coral and everything else I might as well boil the salt. Thank you for letting me know about the frozen shipment. I'm sorry to hear you lost your shrimp.

[sliphorn]

..
Ok, but boiling is over kill. My substrate and lava rocks get rinsed in warm to hot-ish tap water. Twelve tanks later and all is well with active breeding. And now that I think about it, some of the locally collected rocks I have used only got a quick rinse in cold tap water. No issues.

When it comes to keeping opae ula I suggest the Keep It Simple Stupid method. It works. Don't over think it. Good luck with your tank.
..

[Aran Valente]

It looks good but I will say one thing. If the lid makes the system airtight and is going to be left on, then 25% of the volume should be air space. This is the advice of those who create sealed ecosystems. You need to allow for sufficient gas exchange between the water and air. If you are going to remove the lid for a period every day, which you should in my opinion, then you should be fine. When you travel, leave the 25% air space.

The temperatures are a bit low so I would leave the heater in. Is it one that has a preset temp and turns on and off?

Personally, I would wait until it warms up some before ordering any shrimp.

Thank you for the advice! I have a tiny bit of air space where the heater cord loops in. 25% air space is good to remember, thank you! I don't think it will be completely sealed even if I put the lid on because there will be a tiny space in the glass I think for the exchange to take place just too small to see so it will probably lose a tiny bit of moisture but mostly be okay enough to have enough water left if I get back from 6 months away at work. I am excited at the prospect of returning to see my pets still alive and kicking! I usually remove the lid to look at the shrimp so most times it should be ok.

I dunno about leaving the heater in because Mustafa warned against it but maybe I will leave it in during the winter months. I don't want the little buggers to freeze!

I agree about ordering the shrimp though. I just received my Chaeto algae in the mail. Very excited. I will probably order my shrimp in late March or April. Thank you again!

[Aran Valente]

..
Ok, but boiling is over kill. My substrate and lava rocks get rinsed in warm to hot-ish tap water. Twelve tanks later and all is well with active breeding. And now that I think about it, some of the locally collected rocks I have used only got a quick rinse in cold tap water. No issues.

When it comes to keeping opae ula I suggest the Keep It Simple Stupid method. It works. Don't over think it. Good luck with your tank.
..

You have been through TWELVE TANKS?! How big is your current tank? I am thinking about doing a picture frame hang-on-the-wall 5-gallon aquarium for the shrimp someday. I am going to put in a bunch of shells and coral and have guests over and they can marvel and my hang-on-the-wall aquarium while we dine on Shrimp Scampi, fava beans, and Chianti. It would be Silence of the Shrimp!

I shall adhere to your K.I.S.S. method, haha. I have my chaeto hair algae clump now. Debating about the Malaysian Trumpet Snails or just getting one Nerite although I here the Nerites mostly need at least 5-gallon tanks.

I think it's so cool these opae ula shrimp have a mythology! I will make sure my shrimp ecosystem come with a brochure of their myths and legends!

[Aran Valente]

Step aside, Shrimpcinnati! Shrimpidence is coming soon to aquariums near you! Shrimpidence, Rhode Island!

[sliphorn]

..
Ok, but boiling is over kill. My substrate and lava rocks get rinsed in warm to hot-ish tap water. Twelve tanks later and all is well with active breeding. And now that I think about it, some of the locally collected rocks I have used only got a quick rinse in cold tap water. No issues.

When it comes to keeping opae ula I suggest the Keep It Simple Stupid method. It works. Don't over think it. Good luck with your tank.
..

You have been through TWELVE TANKS?! How big is your current tank? I am thinking about doing a picture frame hang-on-the-wall 5-gallon aquarium for the shrimp someday. I am going to put in a bunch of shells and coral and have guests over and they can marvel and my hang-on-the-wall aquarium while we dine on Shrimp Scampi, fava beans, and Chianti. It would be Silence of the Shrimp!

I shall adhere to your K.I.S.S. method, haha. I have my chaeto hair algae clump now. Debating about the Malaysian Trumpet Snails or just getting one Nerite although I here the Nerites mostly need at least 5-gallon tanks.

I think it's so cool these opae ula shrimp have a mythology! I will make sure my shrimp ecosystem come with a brochure of their myths and legends!

..
I have twelve tanks.
..

[maltescooter]

Late to the game here but that Shrimpcinnati video is officially my new favorite thing!