Will change in temperature kill Shrimps?

francis · Post by **francis** » Mon Oct 15, 2007 11:47 pm

Hi! First and foremost, I think this is a great site for all shrimp lovers! I started a couple of months back after researching from your site. I have a small tank (about 4 gallons) with Peacock Moss flooring dedicated to shrimps. I had about 20 Grade A CRS and about 30 RCS. Been consistantly checking Ammonia, PH and Nitrate levels. All is ok as according to your previous posted articles. I even use a little calcium chunks and bamboo charcoal provided by the Japanese breeder (from my usual aquarium shop). Told that calcium will aid the shell shedding and bamboo charcoal to absorb any excess harmful minerals (ie. ammonia etc). I change 20% water frequently (like 2 days once) as somehow I always have oil slicks at the top of the tank and remove Placindas (white flat worms). Had it going well for almost 2 months when suddenly the whole colony is wiped out! I'm only left with 5 RCS now. I have consulted my aquarium shop but was told that it could be due to the drop in temperature. I switch on the air condition (about 24 degrees Celsius) at night and switch off in the afternoon (about 28 degree Celsius). Was told that certain bio organism was not produced etc,etc. It's quite hot here in Malaysia (afternoons outside about 32 degree celsius). Is this possible? I have ordered a much bigger tank (being conditioned now) about 15 Gallons and start over again. Hope with a bigger tank, I will be able to avoid any sudden spikes of water temperaments and maintain the temperature better. Was very discouraged at first but I still have the Shrimp Bug in me!

Newjohn · Post by **Newjohn** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 2:05 am

Hello francis
Amd welcome to the Forum.

about 28 degree Celsius

Is a little on the high side for temperature

20 Grade A CRS and about 30 RCS

Is a little over crowded for such a small tank.

The combination of high temperatures and over population may have led to loss of your shrimp.
Water parameters change change very quickly in such a small tank.

Are you using filtration in your tank ?
Other than the Bambo charcoal.

I always have oil slicks at the top of the tank

This could be caused by lack of water movement .

remove Placindas (white flat worms).

This may be caused by over feeding.

When you get your larger tank, I would suggest to limit the number of shrimp.
Use at least a sponge filter fr filtration and water movement to help with the air/water contact to increase the oxygen level in the water.
And watch how much/often you feed.

Just My Thoughts
John

Neonshrimp · Post by **Neonshrimp** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 6:41 am

Hi francis, welcome to the petshrimp forum. Sorry to hear about your troubles but I agree with Newjohn's comments.

I switch on the air condition (about 24 degrees Celsius) at night and switch off in the afternoon (about 28 degree Celsius).

To keep the temperature steady you can use an aquarium heater for the cool nights and can use a fan or even a chiller for the warn days.

It's good that you are going to be upgrading to a larger tank. This will help you keep the conditions more steady. Please keep us updated on your progress

francis · Post by **francis** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 8:49 am

Thanks for replying. I use a sponge air filter. Currently I'm leveling the water outlet to the water surface level to reduce the formation of oil slick. (read somewhere last night). Seems to work.

Had my air conditioner at full blast last night to test out. Temperature was about 21 degree celsius and found 2 dead RCS this morning.

What would be the most ideal temperature for CRS and RCS? What kind of fluctuation should I be targeting (from 24 to 26 degree celsius)? Will get a heater if need be.

I used to feed once every 2 days. Feeding JBL NOVO Shrimp Pellets.
High chance I could have overfed! Probably had some uneaten pellets hidden.

Will update all once I get my new tank. Still being conditioned by my aquarium shop. For this new tank, what would be the ideal colony size? Planning to start with 20 RCS and 10 CRS first. Better start off with some lower grade CRS this time to minimise future damage!

Neonshrimp · Post by **Neonshrimp** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 9:30 am

What kind of fluctuation should I be targeting (from 24 to 26 degree celsius)? Will get a heater if need be.

This is a good range, mid 70's F is what I keep my shrimp at. A heater is a good idea if your temp range is 21 C and 28 C.

Planning to start with 20 RCS and 10 CRS first. Better start off with some lower grade CRS this time to minimise future damage!

I think in a 15 gal. this is fine and will leave you with room to grow.

Cactus Bastard · Post by **Cactus Bastard** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 8:05 pm

Or you could start with just the RCS for a few months, to be sure your tank is running smoothly.

xy222 · Post by **xy222** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 10:34 pm

francis wrote: I used to feed once every 2 days. Feeding JBL NOVO Shrimp Pellets.
High chance I could have overfed! Probably had some uneaten pellets hidden.

once every 2 days is ok in my opinion(I feed my RCS twice a day

). I guess the shrimps dead because the difference in temperature between day and night. Keep the environment steady is very important especially temperature.

Post by **Mustafa** » Tue Oct 16, 2007 11:48 pm

From the information given the most likely culprit is overfeeding. Temperature differences between night and day won't kill shrimp. Your temperatures aren't all that high (or low) anyway. You should only feed enough that will disappear within approximately 10-20 minutes (give or take a few minutes). I can't emphasize that often enough.

francis · Post by **francis** » Thu Oct 18, 2007 1:34 am

Mustafa wrote:From the information given the most likely culprit is overfeeding. Temperature differences between night and day won't kill shrimp. Your temperatures aren't all that high (or low) anyway. You should only feed enough that will disappear within approximately 10-20 minutes (give or take a few minutes). I can't emphasize that often enough.

Agreed. Read somewhere that Placindas appear when there is a food leftovers (thus overfeeding) and being accumulated under the gravel. I thought that ammonia would also increase in the case of overfeeding. However, in my case no ammonia was detected at all. This is what really puzzled me.

Neonshrimp · Post by **Neonshrimp** » Thu Oct 18, 2007 7:26 am

However, in my case no ammonia was detected at all.

What are you using to measure the ammonia?

francis · Post by **francis** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 1:06 am

Neonshrimp wrote:
However, in my case no ammonia was detected at all.
What are you using to measure the ammonia?

Hi! I'm using Nutrafin Ammonia Test Kit.

btw.. Just got hold of my new tank yesterday. Bought 20 RCS (some with berries!) Have a question, my sponge filter seems to be a bit too strong as it has 2 outlets (with oxygen inlet as well) and the shrimps seems to be tumbling all over the place. Not sure they're enjoying themselves (hyper active) or struggling to stay in place

Looks like a neat filter (it's transparent) and seems to be able to 'flush' any waste away! Do you think I'm overdoing it or should change to a lower capacity filter. Have very minimal plants (some peacock moss tied to a wood). Hope this round all will work out fine!

Neonshrimp · Post by **Neonshrimp** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 7:09 am

The reason I asked about your test kit is because many of the kits will not detect the small amount of ammonia that can harm shrimp.

Is your filter powered by an air pump? If yes then you can use a valve to control the air flow and cut down on the outlet current.

Shrimp like the moss, I have Christmas moss in my breeding tank and they like it

.

francis · Post by **francis** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 11:46 pm

Neonshrimp wrote:The reason I asked about your test kit is because many of the kits will not detect the small amount of ammonia that can harm shrimp.

Is your filter powered by an air pump? If yes then you can use a valve to control the air flow and cut down on the outlet current.

Shrimp like the moss, I have Christmas moss in my breeding tank and they like it .

What would you recommend to be a good ammonia test kit? Come to think of it, I've been tracing 0 ammonia in all my tests!

I've checked the expiry date and it's ok.

My sponge filter is powered by a powerhead. No valves to control air flow. However, there's a valve to control oxygen intake. Anyways, I've positioned the filter in such a way to minimise the undercurrents. RCS seems to enjoy when I pump the oxygen to max! Seems to love the extra bubbles and circulation!