All larvae die. HELP

[camaronqueseduerme]

Hello there

I am having a serious problem in my tank and I would appreciate your help. I have had four berried females releasing larvae and the process has been identical in every case. The eggs are incubated fine but after being released the larvae live for a few hours and then they all die. The literally die overnight. I see them floating in the evening but in the following morning they are gone. I've managed to see two dead larvae on the substrate. The rest just disappear on the crevices in the substrate where they are very hard to spot.

Is there anything that I can do? There is one last berried female which should release in about a week and I am afraid that history will repeat unless I can do something. Thanks and please help

[JennyPenny]

I'm no expert, but the first thing I would check is your water parameters. How long has the tank been set up? I would specifically test for ammonia using a liquid test kit.
It sounds really frustrating, I'm sorry.

[camaronqueseduerme]

Thanks Jenny. I don't have a test kit, but presuming that ammonia was too high, what should I do? Thanks for your reply!

[JennyPenny]

Thanks Jenny. I don't have a test kit, but presuming that ammonia was too high, what should I do? Thanks for your reply!

Can you take a water sample to a local fish store? Most test your water for free.

[Varanus]

Thanks Jenny. I don't have a test kit, but presuming that ammonia was too high, what should I do? Thanks for your reply!

If its too high you could use something like Prime to detoxify it (assuming it would work in still water). Also don't feed them until the level goes down. There should be plenty of good bacteria in the water to detoxify the ammonia assuming it is a well established tank, but its possible something could have temporarily unbalanced it (like feeding too much).

[KenCotigirl]

Invest in a ammonia and nitrite kit. $7 each. Testing will give piece of mind. How long have you had the shrimp. Larvae seem more sensitive to water conditions. They can be sensitive to conditions that the simple tests may not be able to measure. Fully mature tanks are best. If you only had them a couple months be patient. As the tank matures good results will follow. DO NOT FEED.

[Mech]

Until you test for ammonia, nitrite, nitrates and SG you are just left guessing what's wrong.

[camaronqueseduerme]

I followed your advice and did the tests at petco.

The guy told me that my ammonia is high and the rest is unremarkable. I am buying those strips to do regular follow ups. At least the problem has been discovered.

As you suggest I will completely stop feeding for the time being. But I have one more question: One last female is about to release larvae in the next couple of days. Should I try a partial water change to try and save the batch or is it better to give this one up and wait for the water to stabilize on its own?

Once again thanks everyone for the awesome advice and please let me know any other suggestion you may have. I must have lost like 40 larvae in this whole process and it's really sad.

[Mech]

if you are having ammonia then your tank isnt cycled, unless you get an ammonia source then it wont start.. the ammonia feeds the nitrites which is still toxic to shrimp, that will linger for a month or so then you will get a bacteria that will eat those nitrites and produce nitrates. the nitrates are not very toxic in low quantity, hence to not feeding much = less ammonia > less nitrates > keeps nitrates low... when you are done cycling you will only ever have nitrates in the tank,this can be lowered by a water change if it goes above 10ppm.

i would be doing a 50% water change every other day and don't feed until you show 0 ammonia, 0 nitrates and less then 10 nitrates.

Larvae are only going to survive if no ammonia or nitrites are in the tank.

[KenCotigirl]

This is more of a comment than suggestion.

If you have a cycled tank that has a spike in ammonia or nitrites or both a water change or changes,10%-20%, and adding more Prime, follow directions, can help. Removing excess and uneaten food is important. Find the source of the spike is necessary. Stop feeding.

A 50% water change and mutiple 50% water changes are for emergencies, dying adults. The "cure" can kill the patient. Remember changes are stressful.

camaronqueseduerme only you can answer this. Was your tank fully cycled. Did you wait a month or two before adding shrimp. If yes, Were you feeding daily or weekly. Was the food consumed in 5-10 minutes. If over feeding is the cause and adults are not dying than a small water change maybe two and extra Prime should help. If your tank was not fully cycled you have a different problem. Cycling tanks will have measurable ammonia and nitrite. If the adults are ok then you may try weekly small water changes to keep the ammonia/nitrite in the "safe" zone until the tank is cycled. Larvae may continue to die till the tank is cycled.

My comments are not superior to others but I do not like major water changes. As I previously said they could do as much harm as the ammonia.

Keep us updated.

Ken

[camaronqueseduerme]

This morning the eggs have hatched. The female has 12 or 15 larvae still attached to her. I think it's too late to try the water changes. I am sorry for the little larvae. I just hope that in the future I will get new berried females.

I never had any kind of tank or fish, therefore my utter cluelessness on the subject. My tank has been around since the end of July. I think that by now the cycling should be done.

I believe the adults are doing fine. The fact that I had 5 females spawning makes me think so. Also the snails keep reproducing. But obviously the chemistry is wrong. Poor larvae. I have been feeding a tiny pellet of shrimp food every other week. The don't go on a feeding frenzy over it, but they detect it and take turns eating it until it's gone in 3 or 4 hours. I believe now that is be the problem.

So my plan of action is doing ammonia tests (every week?) to see how the parameters evolve and not feeding anything at all. I hope that over time the chemistry will get back to normal and hopefully I will have a healthy tank and new berried females.
You guys are great, I can't say enough how thankful I am for your guidance and suggestions.

[Varanus]

I never had any kind of tank or fish, therefore my utter cluelessness on the subject. My tank has been around since the end of July. I think that by now the cycling should be done.

It is strange as indeed that should be more than enough time to cycle. However cycling can be delayed or unbalanced by various factors. Do you have any plants like the macroalgae or moss balls in the tank? They are good for absorbing some of the potentially toxic byproducts the snails and shrimp produce.

[camaronqueseduerme]

Yes, I have a very healthy macroalga, which has grown a lot since I got it, and a marimo ball as well as some hair algae that appeared spontaneously

[JennyPenny]

Yes, I have a very healthy macroalga, which has grown a lot since I got it, and a marimo ball as well as some hair algae that appeared spontaneously

If I were you, I would remove the marimo ball. They do not do well in brackish water and take a long time to die. It could have dead areas that you can not see that are polluting the water. Luckily you can rinse it in fresh water and pop it in a jar or vase and they look very nice displayed like that.

[JennyPenny]

Just to clarify, the moss balls that Mustafa sells are well suited for brackish water. Marimo balls are best in freshwater.